The efflorescence is the white material that you see on a chimney that is in the form of a powdery mass. Your chimney will have efflorescence when the moisture picks up the minerals, then carries them to the masonry surface, and then leaves them behind as tiny crystals on the surface while the moisture evaporates. These minerals do not cause harm, and all you have to do is brush them away.

It is common to have a small amount of efflorescence, but if it becomes excessive, you should contact the chimney cleaning services so they can take care of it. The rainfall that soaks the brick can cause efflorescence. Read on to know more.

Power Wash it

Yes, you can power wash it. However, when you spray the efflorescent deposits using a power washer, you are not really removing the white stains effectively from the bricks. If you try washing the efflorescence off using a light-powered hose, you should be careful about using a high-pressure spray, which causes more damage to the surface.

Using a power washer on the roof is not the best way to go. It can fall and should only be handled by professionals with the right safety gear.

Brushing

By using a strong brush, you can easily remove efflorescence. In order to clean the efflorescence brick, it is important to do this in dry and warm weather. During this time, moisture can bring more salts to the brick’s surface, and you can use a dry brush to remove the salts.

Using clear water repellents, acrylic coatings and silicone can also help you get rid of efflorescence. The coating absorbs water on a masonry surface and it prevents efflorescence from happening again. In addition, the warm water and white vinegar combination have been known to take out efflorescence.

Use Abrasives

You can try rubbing the salt off by using an abrasive material or a rotary tool, or a sandblaster. All of this could be effective, but it can damage the surface.

Protecting brickwork of your chimney is important. Any damages that are done during the cleaning process cause another problem that did not exist in the past.

If you do this successfully, the porous surface should be sealed properly to prevent any future damage from happening. Scrubbing, scraping, or sanding off all the white salt deposits is not going to stop water from going inside the mortar joins. So, your problem will just get worst.

Rinse the Surface Again

You should rinse the surface of the building with water once again. After that, use a dry and fresh cloth to clean the surface again. Make sure the surface is dry in order to minimize the efflorescence.

Apply coatings about 1/8 to ¼ inches below the building’s surface. This will prevent water evaporation and passing through the treated area like soluble salts and vapor.

Chemical Products

Chemical treatments like muriatic acid, but the downsides can be severe, and you need to be cautious when it comes to using it for a couple of reasons:

1. Muriatic acid contains a lot of toxic chemicals
2. The acid causes any metal in the area to start rusting
3. The effectiveness is less than 100%

Causes:

• Presence of water-soluble salts inside the wall
• There is enough water in the wall to render a soluble solution
• A path for the soluble salts to penetrate through the surface where the moisture will evaporate, which leaves efflorescence on the surface

This post first appeared on https://www.firstclasschimneyservices.com

Chimney Health Hazards: Things You Should Know

Our chimneys, in conjunction with the fireplaces they support, help to provide us with much warmth during the colder months. They can, however, have various adverse effects on our health. Of course, one shouldn’t live in fear of this, though it is wise to have a working knowledge of chimney and fireplace health hazards. Let’s look at some ways in which your chimney may be more foe than friend.

Creosote Exposure

Creosote is an oily black substance that can potentially build up inside your chimney flue because of incomplete wood combustion (can be removed with a chimney cleaning). Not only does this stuff sound nasty, but it can also produce some undesirable health effects, such as:

Skin Irritation.

Physical contact with creosote buildup can cause rashes and other major skin issues.

Eye Irritation.

Creosote debris that gets on/in the eyes will irritate them, sometimes to the point of feeling burning sensations or actual chemical burns. Sensitivity to light is also possible.

Respiratory Problems.

Breathing in creosote particles for a length of time often catches up with the person exposed, as lung and other respiratory issues may develop.

Abdominal Issues.

Creosote carries with it the potential to irritate both one’s kidneys and liver.

Mental Problems.

Serious exposure to creosote will cause seizures and confusion in some people.

Cancer.

Though this greatest health effect has not occurred often from chimney use, creosote exposure does have the potential to cause skin cancer.

Chimney Soot Inhalation

Chimney soot is another contaminant resulting from incomplete combustion, and it forms when wood does not burn hot enough (less than 284 degrees). This powdery brown or black dust sticks to the inside of chimneys (sometimes escaping into the air) and carries a few risks similar to creosote, such as:

Lung Hazard.

Like creosote, if chimney soot is inhaled in great enough amounts, it has the potential to either irritate the lungs or cause lung diseases.

Respiratory Risks.

In conjunction with lung problems, general respiratory infections may crop up due to soot inhalation.

Carbon Monoxide Poisoning

Carbon monoxide is a hazardous gas that is odorless, colorless and tasteless, making it notoriously hard to detect. The gas is a result of incomplete combustion due to insufficient oxygen to finish oxidation. In this case, it doesn’t make it to the carbon dioxide form. When Carbon monoxide makes it into the air, several health problems may emerge:

Flu-like Symptoms.

Carbon monoxide taken into the body in small amounts may mirror flu characteristics, including fatigue, nausea, confusion or headache.

Organ Troubles.

The more carbon monoxide you inhale, the worse the impacts on your health. Breathing in large quantities (At once or over time) of this gas may result in brain damage or heart problems, and at its worst even death.

Chimney Swifts and Histoplasmosis

Chimney swifts are small, brownish black birds with an affinity for taking up residence inside residential chimneys. The birds themselves are little more than annoying, though what they leave behind may cause problems. Their droppings may cause histoplasmosis, a respiratory infection caused by histplasma capsulatum, a fungus. Symptoms generally look like a mild illness or flu, and include:

Chronic Cough.

Coughing a lot? It might be a sign of a larger problem from your chimney.

Chest Pain.

Chest pain is never something to ignore, and if you knowingly have chimney swifts, it may be worth it to mention to the doctor.

Fever, Chills or Sweats.

Though usually associated with the flu, these symptoms may be the result of extreme buildup of histplasma capsulatum in your chimney.

Lack of Appetite and Weight Loss.

While you may simply be under the weather when this happens, if this or any of the above symptoms have joined forces, those chimney swifts may be to blame.

None of these things are particularly enjoyable to cope with. So, the underlying message is simple: take precautions and clean your chimney. Chimney sweeps can determine with a chimney inspection if any internal structures of your chimney are damaged, contributing to buildup problems. Additionally, chimney sweeps will remove creosote, soot and chimney swift deposits, resulting in decreased health risks. You may also consider having your home checked for carbon monoxide and also install a carbon monoxide detector. With a better knowledge of chimney risks, you can now enjoy wintertime fires more responsibly!

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Regular maintenance on your masonry chimney will keep it looking great for years. In reality, though, regular maintenance falls through the cracks while you juggle work, life and family. Sometimes, even the most proactive homeowners will be surprised by damage left by previous owners. So while in a perfect world, repointing would be the only masonry service the average masonry chimney would need, in reality you might find unfamiliar problems with your masonry.

Masonry Chimney Damage

Spalled Bricks

Broken (or spalled) bricks are one of the most noticeable types of damage. This is most commonly seen when the front of the brick has either broken or fallen from the masonry.

We’ve mentioned before that the largest cause of damage to brick and masonry is freeze and thaw cycles. Bricks are built to withstand water by finishing them with a hard non-porous outer shell. Spalled bricks break this shell and expose the porous interior of the brick, allowing water damage to destroy your masonry at an accelerated rate.

Spalled bricks are primarily caused when mortar with an incorrect compression rate is used. Mortar is made to absorb the expansion of brick during freeze and thaw cycles. If the mortar is stronger than the brick, however, this role reverses. As brick isn’t meant to be squeezed by expanding materials, it can quickly deteriorate.

The Wrong Bricks

All bricks are not created equal. Brick makers understand that interior bricks don’t need to weather the same abuse as exterior bricks, and thus make different types of bricks. When buying bricks, the difference between these is obvious. It becomes a problem, however, when bricks are salvaged. Inexperienced masons and do-it-yourselfers have a difficult time determining which bricks were meant for interior and exterior use.

Some brick makers even make different bricks for different climates. The Deep South is free from freeze and thaw cycles, so some brick makers decided to change the type of brick they shipped there. Since these bricks didn’t need to withstand the same type of abuse as bricks used in the North, they added sawdust to the brick mix. When the bricks were fired, the sawdust burnt away, creating a lighter, more porous brick. This saved on transportation and made it easier for masons. While this caused little problems for the South, unfortunately these bricks were soon being sold further north, where they easily crumble under the extreme temperatures.

Damage from sandblasters and pressure sprayers

An unexpected source of damage is sandblasters and high pressure sprayers. While these might make cleaning a hands free experience, they do so at the expense of your masonry. As mentioned earlier, brick is made such that the edges are hardened to prevent absorption of water. Sandblasting and even high pressure sprayers can reduce this hardened edge and allow water into your bricks, drastically reducing their lifespan.

Masonry Chimney Repair

Unfortunately, there’s no easy way to fix spalled bricks. Removal of the spalled bricks and replacement with strong new bricks is necessary. If the spalling is caused by poorly calculated mortar, repointing with correct mortar may help to prevent the problem from spreading.

If you suspect your masonry might be made with bricks that can’t stand up to your weather, or if you have sandblasted or pressure sprayed your masonry, we can apply a waterproof sealant to help the longevity of the bricks.

And of course, if you notice any spalled bricks, cracks, crumbling mortar, or signs of deterioration on your masonry chimney, it’s time to contact a masonry expert right away. Ignoring masonry problems is dangerous and costly.

If you have questions about masonry repair in Northern Virginia, Washington D.C. or Maryland, we at High’s Chimney would be happy to answer any of your questions or take a look at your masonry and give you an estimate for repairs free of charge.

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Five Reasons for Chimney Leaks and What to Do About Them

Causes of leaking chimneys can usually be narrowed down to five reasons. If your problem isn’t solved from addressing the items on this list, your leak probably isn’t from the chimney!

#1 The Simplest Cause of Chimney Leaking: Rain Going Straight In from the Top

It’s not hard to picture that. Chimneys without covers get a lot of rain falling straight down into them. A chimney cover makes sense to most people. Not only does it keep the rain out, but keeps birds, animals and debris out. The greatest value of the chimney cover is really keeping these out because when chimneys get blocked at the bottom, people get sick (or even die) from CO poisoning. While it’s true that sometimes an uncovered flue is the source of water problems, most often this reason for a leak is only when the liner is metal.

How to fix it

Get a chimney cover and have a professional make sure it’s not this simple.

#2 Many Chimney Leaks are from Cracks in the Chimney Crown

The chimney crown is the cement part on top of the chimney. The bricks go up around the tile flue liners, but at the top you need something to stop the rain and snow from just falling in around the tiles. You can see that the very purpose of the chimney crown is to keep rain out. Cracks in the chimney crown can occur from shifting of the structure or from shrinkage dating back to the first day the crown was put on. When your crown has cracks, the water goes right through those cracks.

How to fix it

How to fix a cracked crown depends upon how bad the damage is. Most crowns have small cracks. Even small ones need to be fixed because all big cracks started out as small ones. Water freezes and thaws in the cracks all winter long, year after year, forcing small cracks to eventually become big cracks. There are excellent crown coating materials such as Chimney Saver Crown Coat which cover the masonry and prevent small cracks from becoming a real problem.

Once chimney crown damage is significant, though, the only fix it is to remove and relay the masonry. You can’t put a band aid on a gushing wound and you can’t coat a structurally ruined chimney crown and expect it to work. Best to coat your crown now with Crown Coat and avoid the big hassle and expense later.

Leaky Chimney? We can fix that! If you believe that your chimney is causing damage to your home please give us a call or schedule an appointment online. We’ll be happy to help you.

#3 Chimneys Leaking From the Inside Out from Condensation

I remember a lady whose wallpaper peeled where the chimney ran through the house. She knew it was the chimney because this is the only place with wallpaper peeling. She had tried everything- a chimney cover, flashing, even rebuilt the entire top of the chimney. By the time I met her she’d spent thousands of dollars but nothing fixed it.

This was an older house with an unlined brick chimney. In 1900 when it was built that chimney carried wood or coal smoke I’m sure. Someplace along the way a gas furnace was installed, but the chimney was not lined with a properly sized liner.

How to fix it

Gas fumes are very low temperature and have a lot of moisture in them. These fumes were condensing on the inside of this too-large, too-cold old chimney, literally soaking the bricks and keeping them moist all the time. All it took was a chimney liner and we solved the problem.

#4 Chimney Flashing Causes Leaks

The flashing is what keeps water from going into the place where the brick structure comes through the roof (or otherwise comes close to the roof.) There’s a fairly large gap between the bricks and the roof and water will pour through that hole if it’s not sealed up. Flashing is often aluminum that goes in between a couple bricks and bends to go on top of the shingles. Some sort of water proof “stuff” seals those spots. Though it’s far from the best choice, the “stuff” is often tar. In any event, flashing doesn’t last forever and the tar lasts even less time.

How to fix it

There are better materials for sealing the flashing now. If you get a chimney sweep to fix your flashing, tell him you want Flash Seal by Saver Systems. (As you can see, I like Saver Systems products; but they just work well, so you can’t go wrong!) It seals better and lasts longer.

#5 Chimney Leaks Caused by Leaking Bricks

Bricks and mortar both pass water, and often lots of it. The problem here is the same as with the crown- the freezing and thawing all winter long with the resulting damage which causes leaks in the house.

You have probably heard of waterproofing a chimney, but you have to be careful about what waterproofing material to use. When water is absorbed into a brick or a mortar joint in the summer time, the water probably dries out after a while. The exceptions might be for a surface in the shade or on the side of the house where the sun never shines; those walls just stay wet. That water does try to escape by “falling” i.e. the water weight (or head pressure) carries it toward the ground where it forces its way out of the bricks either inside or outside of the house.

If you apply a waterproofing material that physically blocks the pores of the brick or mortar, the water is trapped inside the brick. Some bricks actually get soggy, though it’s more likely that the water will just seep to the inside of the house. To the point, using silicone based water sealants may trap water and cause more damage than you started with. Use polysiloxane type waterproofing agents, such as Chimney Saver by Saver Systems.

How to fix it

To find out if your chimney leaks through the masonry surface, have your sweep do a Masonry Absorption Test (MAT) This is a simple test where a special test tube is attached to the side of the chimney and you record the time it takes for water to be absorbed into the wall. This tells you if you should waterproof the chimney.

Bonus: #6 Chimney Leaks That Aren’t Chimney Leaks

Sometimes, a leak starts in a different place but finds its way to the chimney, and then visibly enters the inside of a room at the point of the chimney.

For example, your roof might have a leak through the attic vent or roof shingle at the top. Water could get into the attic or above your ceiling and either drip to the floor or roll along the stringer (the long piece of wood that spaces out the roof trusses and runs the length of your house). If the stringer is un-level, water can travel a ways – and even wind up at the chimney. It has happened, and usually isn’t discovered until people have spent a terrible sum fixing everything else.

Another event that could happen (although I have never heard of it actually happening) is that you could get so much moisture in your attic that it could condense and roll down the stringer onto your chimney. This could happen if there were some reason your attic was getting a lot of humidity in it – for example, if your dryer vented into the attic instead of out of a vent perhaps, or if your gas furnace were vented by B Vent but just dumped into the attic (which would be a severe carbon monoxide risk, incidentally).

–Need help with your chimney leak repair in Maryland, DC, or North Virginia? Call High’s!

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Understanding chimney draft problems is not necessary for most people. Usually, if you notice smoke not rising from your chimney, you can call on a professional to fix the issues.

This information is for those who really like to understand; it may be too much information for many people. I’ll do my best to keep it as interesting as it can be. If you’re a do-it-yourselfer or the owner of an old home, you’ll probably get a lot of out of it.

Understanding Chimney Draft Issues

To understand the problems, you need to understand what draft is. Draft is what we name the effect of how the air flows up the chimney. It’s measured in “inches of water column.” Draft then is the combination of volume, speed, and pressure of the flue gasses. And temperature of the gasses comes into play here as well.
For matters of this discussion, chimney draft is usually thought of as the speed at which the vented gasses travel up the stack, or pressure of the gasses. This can also be referred to as the stack effect. A common question might be “how strong is the stack effect?” Good draft conditions mean that the vented gasses are traveling up the chimney quickly rather than slowly or not at all.

How Does Chimney Draft Work?

The reason smoke (or other flue gas) goes up the chimney at all is because of the vacuum in the chimney. The question you should ask now is “a vacuum relative to what?” The general answer is that it’s relative to the air in the house. Don’t read too much into that because it gets tricky (for example, how does replacement air get into the house?- because the house environment is a relative vacuum to the outside. Yet the inside of the house is not a vacuum compared to the chimney.) Let’s keep this simple and just talk about the chimney. The pressure in the chimney is typically less than that inside the house. Thus, the draft effect is caused by air inside the chimney being pushed up the chimney by the house air.

And why is there a difference in pressure in and out of the house, or in and out of the chimney? There can be a few reasons, but the biggest and most important reason is the temperature difference from one place to another. Remember that when air is heated it expands? The same amount of air occupies a larger space, or you could say the same amount of space has less air (fewer molecules of air.)

The air outside the house in the winter is colder and heavier than the warmer air in the house. It pushes its way into the house (or is it pulled, depending on how confused you want to be.) The air in the chimney just came from a fire so it’s really hot and expanded and being pushed up the chimney to the cooler air outside where warm air rises, right? That’s buoyancy. Problems occur when these processes don’t happen correctly.

Diagnosing Chimney Draft Problems

Draft is measured with a pressure meter that has a probe which goes into the smokepipe. The meter should register a negative number, and generally speaking for residential heating appliances that number would range between -0.02 to -0.04. Zero or a positive number means the gasses are not going up the chimney. And too large a negative number can have its own set of consequences; but that isn’t usually the problem. Mostly “a draft problem” means the gases are not going up the flue, this is merely a minor chimney repair.

Causes of Draft Problems

Now there are other reasons for draft problems. One is called Dynamic Wind Loading. or “DWL.” DWL is caused when the wind blows on one side of the house and causes a positive pressure, and creates a corresponding negative pressure on the other side of the house.

If the windward side of the house is tight and the lee side (negative pressure side) isn’t, the vacuum resulting from the wind can suck air out of the house. And the most likely source of that air is the chimney; it’ll pull down on the chimney, smoke and all and keep it from exiting your house! Or if a gas furnace is being vented you won’t see smoke but you still get the carbon monoxide.

The way to deal with that is to tighten up the lee side of the house and then put in an outside-air source. There are kits for that or you can just crack a window on the windward side of the house.

Chimney Draft Issues Caused by Fans

The other large reason for bad draft is when chimneys have to overcome fans in the house. Kitchen fans, bathroom fans, radon fans. It doesn’t take much of a fan to overcome a natural draft appliance (such as a fireplace or woodstove) Again, the best answer is to allow “make up air” into the house.

The problem with that of course is that you don’t want a draft across the floor and you hate to purposefully introduce freezing cold air into the very house you’re trying to heat. It’s a Catch 22, but I can tell you CO poisoning is a bad thing, and smoke in the house is a bad thing. You just may have to make some choices.

Air Flowing Down Your Chimney

Finally, sometimes air actually blows down the chimney, but less frequently than you’d guess- it’s usually something else. But maybe your chimney is short and next to a larger part of the house or a bigger building. The same problem occurs if your house is located at the base of a mountain. If you have this problem, a Vacustack is a good solution if you can’t raise the chimney to the proper height.

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Asking what’s the best way to waterproof a chimney or what are the best waterproofing products are both understandable enough questions, but they’re also too broad for a simple answer. Best way to waterproof what kind of chimney? Are we waterproofing a vertical wall or the breast of the brickwork? There are brick, concrete block, stucco and stone chimneys and there are different considerations for all of them – meaning you might use different products on different types of chimneys. Let’s peel this back like an onion.

Choosing the Right Waterproofing Product

Before getting started, please understand that the less a waterproofing product costs, the less likely it is to do you any good. One major brand costs fairly little but lasts a rather short amount of time because it breaks down in with UV exposure (sunlight.)

You want a product that uses poly siloxanes or silanes. Basically, that means that it doesn’t use solids to block up the pores of the masonry, rather it sets up an electrostatic charge that outside water can’t overcome. At the same time, if the masonry has trapped moisture in it the day you decide to waterproof (and it very well may) the head pressure of the water inside will be able to overcome the electrostatic charge and escape. In other words, water can’t get in, but it could get out if need be. The good stuff does cost more – not prohibitively more – but it is oh so, so worth it.

Sealing Brick Chimney

Since about 99% of the people reading this have brick chimneys, let’s start there (I will address non-brick chimneys later). One of the central issues concerning waterproofing is the porosity of the material being waterproofed. This makes sense: you don’t have to waterproof steel or vinyl because water doesn’t penetrate them in the first place. While bricks are generally less porous than many other materials (like a cinder block) different types of bricks vary in porosity themselves.

This explanation is to set the stage for understanding that sometimes you have to waterproof a chimney more than once. You should know this too: though we don’t like to admit it, the fact is that sometimes professionals misjudge how much waterproofing a chimney needs and wind up coming back when they get a complaint. We sure don’t like that, nor do we like people being dissatisfied with our work, but where waterproofing is concerned, it seems to be a fact of life. Moral of that story is 1) ask your waterproofer to go over it twice just for good measure (even if it costs a bit more) and 2) don’t be too tough on your guy if you have to call him back. I thank you on behalf of all the guys who ever get caught in that squeeze! And please look below for special information concerning re-applications.

A last item before moving onto specific information: If you have spalling brick, i.e. the faces of the brick are popping off, don’t bother to waterproof the chimney; it’s too late. Instead kick yourself for not having done it ten years ago and have the brick structure rebuilt. Then waterproof it so it doesn’t happen again.

Now for some specific information, still with bricks:

How is chimney waterproofing applied?

Waterproofing is applied with a sprayer. On the vertical walls, i.e. most of the chimney, waterproofing should be applied from bottom to top because as the waterproofing material comes out of the sprayer it runs down the chimney and gets absorbed into the chimney below the area being working on. It sort of amounts to doing it twice. Obviously, the top needs extra attention or it’d only get one pass. And as mentioned before, I’d do it twice. After you finish about 10 minutes’ worth, do it again just to make sure the whole structure gets a good soaking.

Special considerations should be given to breast walls, re-application, the crown, the flashing area and the mortar joints. The breast wall is where a chimney doesn’t go straight down to the ground, rather goes around something (almost always a fireplace.) They aren’t usually outright horizontal areas, a 30°-60° angle is pretty common. These areas should get different treatment.

Sealing the Chimney Breast

Because the chimney breast has a more severe exposure to rain and particularly snow, it needs more coats of waterproofing. Most waterproofing used these days is water-based material. This is for a couple reasons: one is that water-based materials cost considerably less than solvent based materials. They are safer to ship, store and use and they are perfectly adequate to the task. The exception to the advantages is on non-vertical surfaces.

One way to deal with a non-vertical surface is to waterproof it over and over and over. Another is to use a solvent-based material, still with polysiloxanes, because it soaks deeper into the substrate. For a chimney with a breast below, opt for the more expensive solvent-based waterproofing.

A special note about re-applications. If one needs to re-apply waterproofing after the water-based material has already dried, solvent-based waterproofing should be used. This is not common knowledge, even among the trade. Whether re-applying the next day or ten years later, use solvent-based waterproofing. Don’t be alarmed that if after reading this article you know more than the people you hire to do the job; most people don’t know all this. Just patiently insist on getting what you ask for.

Sealing a Chimney Crown

The chimney crown is an almost flat surface and it’s made of concrete or mortar. It shouldn’t be made of mortar, but there’s a good chance that it is anyway. Based on what you’ve just read about waterproofing the chimney breast, you’d reasonably think that you’d just use a solvent based waterproofing material there. But that is not so: a crown requires more than ordinary waterproofing.

The crown is rather porous. If you’re lucky the crown will be made of concrete and will have been worked in a way that makes the top quite smooth and non-porous. But on average, crowns are fairly porous and have more exposure to rain and snow than all of the rest of the chimney, and accordingly more problems (e.g. leaks) that the rest of the chimney as well.

There are coatings made specifically for crowns (the two major brands are Weather Tight and Saver Systems and both are generally available to the trade only.) Regardless of the brand being used, crown preparation is key. All the moss and dirt must be wire-brushed away. The crown should be wetted down before the material is applied. Crown coatings applied to dry surfaces don’t develop the necessary bond you’re looking for. Large cracks should be caulked with high resin filler before the crown coat is applied.

A note on horizontal surfaces which are not chimney crowns, such as driveways etc. Siloxanes are not the best choice here because driveways are made of concrete. A similar material (silane) is appropriate in order to get proper bonding with the substrate. It’s not that chimney waterproofing material won’t work; it’s just that silanes will last longer in this instance.

The flashing area needs special attention. Traditional flashing, which 99.9% of all of us have, is not actually so great. I’m sure traditional in-the-mortar-joint-flashing was a huge improvement over whatever was before it a hundred years ago, but don’t imagine it keeps water out the way you wish it did.

There are terrific flashing products which, in my opinion, are sadly underused. Flash Seal and Flash Tight (once again, Saver Systems and WaterTight products) are high-resin coatings specifically for this purpose. To waterproof the flashing really well, ask for one of these products. Your sweep may or may not even know what you’re talking about, but don’t hold that against him. In this case you’ll be educating him. As I said, they are still under-appreciated products at this point.

Now for the big one: the mortar. Since most leaking occurs at the joints, you want to be extra sure you soak them real well with the waterproofing. You should know that as a rule mortar joints are often not as well bonded as you might think they are, and there are actually small cracks in the mortar (usually not visible though.) The joints themselves have different properties on different chimneys depending upon whether mortar cement or Portland cement was used, not to mention the particle size of the sand used and the pH of the water that was mixed to make the mortar.

How long does chimney waterproofing last?

Before moving on, let me answer another FAQ. The question is how long does chimney waterproofing last? Answer is, as a general statement, probably about 20 years for most people. If you have the wind blowing sand at your chimney a lot, perhaps in the desert or by the sea, the brick surface can wear away, but most people don’t have that. There are guarantees, generally about 10 years. When those guarantees were instituted they were basically guesses from studies done in wind tunnels and freeze-thaw cycles. After a lot of years of observation, 20 years seems to be a generally good answer. Having it redone every 10-15 years is reasonable maintenance.

What is the difference between beading and repelling water?

A related subject: there’s a difference between “beading” and repelling water. Right after anything is waterproofed, there is a very satisfying effect called beading. This is where you see beads of water just sitting on the surface, kind of like seeing water sitting on oil. As neat as it is to see, at effect is temporary. I don’t know why, but the fact remains that waterproofing remains effective for many, many years beyond the beading effect is gone.

How to waterproof chimney cinderblock

Now concerning waterproofing concrete block chimneys. Concrete block chimneys are the most porous of all, and they are at the same time most in need of waterproofing and most difficult to get a good result. But not impossible – you just need extra passes, and it’s a good idea to use a solvent-based waterproofing material here as well. As you know, I trash-talked solids in your waterproofing at the beginning of the article. I’ll backtrack just a little here.

Polysiloxane waterproofing material is still the superior technology, but for pores this big, you might do well to outright seal them. You can do that with stucco or by using a waterproof paint. Boat paint might be overkill, but it should work like a charm. There’s also a special hybrid product from Saver Systems that has some solids in it (Chimney Saver for Concrete Blocks).

Stucco chimneys are a bit trickier. (Disclaimer: I know less about stucco than I do about bricks) Old stucco was made with gypsum and I can’t help you with what kind of waterproofing material, if any, should be used. Modern stucco for plastering a chimney however would be made with Portland cement. Porosity would be “not too bad” so you could use a waterproofing material on it, i.e. – it will bond to it.

That said, I’m not sure it’s necessary as I believe stucco is pretty good at keeping water away from the surface below. It’s applied almost an inch thick and it’s pretty good at drying out. I suppose there is the danger of several days of rain and the stucco getting saturated; again I don’t know enough about stucco to comment on how long it will hold how much water. My observation in life is that most stucco surfaces are not falling apart, yet it seems that freezing and thawing should destroy them. Sorry to be of so little help here.

How to waterproof stone chimneys

Finally, there are stone chimneys. Depending upon what kind of stone, the surface may be quite dense or quite porous. Regardless, stone usually doesn’t waterproof well with chimney waterproofing materials. The reason is that siloxanes and silanes bond to silica, and stones may or may not be silica. If they are, it’ll work, and if they aren’t, it won’t. Faux stone on the other hand is made with Portland cement, and you can waterproof it.

A Final Cautionary Word

Let me finish with a fun (in retrospect) cautionary tale. Be careful where you spray your waterproofing material. We once had an employee get cute and draw a smiley face on one of our customer’s driveway. It dried right up, no problem. But, when it rained the smiley face showed up just great. We wound up waterproofing that whole driveway just to keep it from smiling in the rain. Put down cloths on the roof so you don’t get it on the shingles. Never get it on the windows (you’ll mess them up permanently.) And of course, be real careful not to get it on the driveway J

The post How to Waterproof a Chimney appeared first on Highs Chimney.

Whether you are buying or selling a home, many homeowners falsely believe that a home inspection will find any chimney-related issues. BUYER and SELLER BE AWARE.

In this crazy housing market, people are bypassing home inspections to win the bid!

Listen to this BOSTON 25 news report about the importance of home inspections. These are safety issues and must not be overlooked.

Now more than ever, it is imperative to have your chimney and fireplace inspected prior to buying or selling, here is what you need to know:

Are you buying?

Home buyers need to make sure their new home is safe and sound for themselves and their family. If the new house has a fireplace, make sure the chimney is in good condition. Once a home is under contract, buyers can request an independent chimney inspection in addition to a home inspection.

Even if the sellers have an inspection report from a chimney sweep, you can still ask to have another sweep do a secondary inspection. This second inspection can confirm the findings of the chimney report – or uncover issues that were not previously disclosed. This report can ensure that any fireplace, heating flue, or other chimney issues are addressed before the sale is finalized.

If you recently bought a new home, but the sellers did not include findings from a chimney inspection in their disclosures, you will want to have the chimney inspected before lighting your first fire. This is especially true if you bought an older home, a home that was unoccupied for a long period of time before purchase, or a home where the fireplace was rarely or infrequently used.

Are you selling?

If you are selling your home, you should consider having the chimney swept and inspected before putting it on the market. Having the chimney swept and inspected gives you a cleaner and more efficient fireplace system, but it can also alert you of any chimney damage that has occurred or repairs that need to be made. Finding chimney damage before you put your home on the market gives you plenty of time to make repairs. It reduces the risk of any unpleasant surprises being uncovered during the buyer’s inspection. In addition to allowing, you to make repairs, having a report from a certified chimney sweep can also help put buyers at ease about the condition of the chimney.

Having a chimney inspection done before buying or selling a home can ensure no problems with the fireplace, heating flue, and chimney and give everyone involved peace of mind.

If you’re getting ready to buy or sell your home, we encourage you to contact Boston Best Chimney today to schedule your chimney inspection.

The post Buying or Selling a Home? Do You Need a Chimney Inspection? – BE AWARE appeared first on Boston's Best Chimney.

Water leaks through the chimney can cause big problems in the home. After the past couple of weeks of rainstorms, I went out to the back of the yard to take a look at some of the damage it caused to the trees. It certainly was a swamp in the back as I even saw a full-grown turtle, about 6” in diameter mulling about. Something that big must mean I now have a fully functional swamp. As I stood there admiring the turtle, I looked up at my neighbor’s home to find the chimney questionable. It prompted me to wonder if there was a water leak in their home. Here’s why.

Chimney Water Leaks

Water is magical. When there is a water leak in the home, it can be a challenge to find where it originated. All that water needs are the smallest openings possible for it to enter the home and begin its travels. The water can stay near its source, or it can grab on to a piece of wood and travel the length of it, or maybe catch on to a pipe and travel even further away from its source. Let’s discuss some of the ways water can enter the chimney if it is not sealed properly.

Most Common Ways Water Leaks Through the Chimney

1. Chimney Cap – The chimney cap serves as a barrier at the top of the chimney. The chimney cap must be on straight and secured on all sides of the chimney termination. This keeps rain water from directly entering the chimney. The guards pattern on all four sides of the chimney cap keeps debris and small animals out of the chimney itself.  Every chimney needs a chimney cap for the same reasons every home needs a roof!
2. Chimney Crown – The chimney crown is made from concrete and deters water away from the chimney termination. It is critical to keep the chimney crown in good condition, meaning free from cracks as these are perfect areas for water to enter into the home.
3. Mortar Joints – The mortar joints in between bricks or stone deteriorates over time. If there are cracks or missing pieces of mortar, this is a key area for water to enter.
4. Bricks – Bricks are porous just like the mortar. If the bricks are constantly moist, say for instance, the bricks are in the shade a lot and never get a chance to dry out,theyt can absorb enough water to start a leak inside the home.
5. Flashing – Flashing is the material used in order to protect the area where the chimney protrudes out of the roofing system. If the flashing seal or the flashing itself isn’t properly sealed, is cracked or is missing, then water will easily and quickly enter the home.
6. Chimney Liner – If the chimney flue isn’t venting properly, condensation quickly builds up and the water leak comes from inside the chimney.

Chimney Leak Repairs  

Repairing any one of the six chimney leaks needs to be done by a certified chimney technician. All certified chimney technicians at Superior Chimney are able to inspect, evaluate and recommend a solution that best fits your chimneys needs.

Chimney leak repairs can be avoided by scheduling regular chimney inspections…even if you don’t use your fireplace, it is an integral part of the exterior home structure that still has the need to be kept up. It’s not the gas fireplace or wood burning fireplace that cause repairs, it’s the natural deterioration that occurs outside with rain, wind and snow along with the rising and falling temperatures.   

Chimney Inspections

Superior Chimney provides a complete 14-point inspection with every chimney sweep. At each step of the way, we provide photographs so you can see for yourself the condition of the chimney. It’s an important service to provide as taking close up pictures of the chimney is a great way for you to ‘see’ first hand the condition of the chimney. We’ll work to explain what we’ve evaluated and provide you feedback on each point.

If everything looks great, we’ll let you know along with areas for improvement. These are things that you can do to increase the life of your chimney.

If you’re ready for a chimney 14-point inspection to ensure water stays on the outside, contact us today at 877-244-6349. We’ll get you scheduled and ready to take the weather elements head on!

This post first appeared on https://www.superiorchimney.net

The living room is at the center of any home, which offers a gathering place for friends and family and hosts countless precious memories. With the fireplace acting as a focal point, it is very common to forget about the other half you can’t see… your chimney.  

This is your reminder to check on your chimney and look out for the seven most common issues. The most common chimney issue is creosote buildup, and if you are not sure what creosote is, read more about it here and learn ways to avoid it. Other common chimney issues include additional problem areas, damages, and obstructions.  

Chimney Obstructions 

A blocked chimney can be extremely dangerous, and different things can obstruct your chimney. Blockages in your chimney create operating problems and can cause carbon monoxide fumes to enter your home. In addition to those fumes, a blocked chimney can cause a house fire. If you suspect possible chimney obstructions, a quick and safe way to spot them is to keep an eye on any possible smoke or soot entering the home when you burn a fire in the fireplace. Remember that obstructions are not always visible, and the best prevention for chimney obstructions is to have your chimney professionally cleaned at least once a year. 

Damaged Chimney Liner 

The chimney flue liner is arguably the most important part of your chimney. It protects the most flammable parts of the chimney from the heat. It is common for chimney liners not to last quite as long as the rest of the chimney. Creosote and other obstructions build up over time and can cause damage to the liner if left untreated. As with other issues, chimney liner deterioration can cause your home to be vulnerable to fires. 

Chimney Crown Damages 

Your chimney crown is at the top of your chimney. It creates a seal around the perimeter of your chimney by connecting the outer edge of the chimney to the inner edge of the flue liner. Chimney crowns are made from a unique mortar mix that, while secure, is subject to cracking and chipping over time. Moisture easily enters through the damaged areas of the crown and causes extensive corrosion. If you are able to catch the damage early, it is simple to repair damages to your chimney crown. It is ideal to identify damages early on to avoid complete chimney replacement. Waterproofing your chimney crown is a great way to help prevent damage and corrosion.  

Leaking Flashing 

Installing chimney flashing is a difficult task to begin with because creating a watertight seal is challenging. It is extremely important to have professionals install and repair your chimney flashing to avoid any issues during install and repairs. It is easy for water to enter damaged flashing and spread to the unprotected part of your roof, causing additional damage. People often do not discover leaking flashing until they see interior roof leaks, and by then, it is often too late to prevent extensive damage to the ceiling or even structural damage. Repairing damages from leaking flashing can become expensive. It is easy to do a visual check of your chimney and attic area to help prevent leaking flashing.  

If you think you have identified any of these issues with your chimney, or if you just want to avoid them in the future, give us a call to schedule your cleaning. 

The post Common Chimney Issues to Look For first appeared on Southern Chimneys.

This post first appeared on https://southernchimneys.com

A fireplace insert is a fantastic and cost-effective way to update an outdated fireplace or even install a fireplace in a home without an existing chimney! It is also an excellent way to convert a wood-burning fireplace to gas and vice versa. At Fluesbrothers Chimney Service & Fireplace Store, we pride ourselves on our outstanding selection and installation of quality wood & gas heating appliances for homes in Shawnee, Bonner Springs, Lenexa, Olathe, Overland Park, and in communities throughout the Kansas City Metropolitan Area.

Wood Inserts

A wood-burning insert is designed to fit inside an existing fireplace opening, providing a natural wood-burning experience without the heat loss and pollution of a conventional masonry fireplace. As a result of its closed-combustion system, a wood-burning insert has a heating efficiency of 70% or more, compared to 15% for a traditional fireplace. In addition, it burns hotter and cleaner, requiring less maintenance and cleaning. Many inserts are equipped with a blower motor that radiates heat throughout the living space keeping your home warm and comfortable for hours. Its higher heating efficiency also means you will use fewer wood logs for fuel, lowering heating costs.

Gas Inserts

When you want an authentic fire-burning experience with the convenience of gas, an energy-efficient gas-burning fireplace insert is hard to beat. Not only is gas a cleaner-burning fuel, but its continuous operation with automatic thermostat settings will keep your home at the desired comfort level all season long. Some models also have a remote control allowing you to operate the fireplace without getting out of the chair. Plus, with an 80% heating efficiency or higher, installing a gas insert will also lower energy bills.

How a Fireplace Insert Works

A fireplace insert is essentially a self-contained heating appliance enclosed in a steel or iron fireproof firebox. This allows inserts to be installed in rooms too small for a traditional fireplace. A vented fireplace inserts the exhaust through an existing chimney or an external vent. There are also ventless inserts that don’t require a flue or exterior vent. These systems have a built-in oxygen sensor that automatically shuts off the unit when it detects carbon monoxide.
Whether you choose a gas or wood fireplace insert, annual cleaning and inspection are strongly recommended to ensure your heating appliance continues to operate safely and efficiently. It will also prolong its lifespan and reduce repairs.

Best Selection & Certified Installation

Fluesbrothers offers an outstanding selection of high-quality wood and gas fireplace inserts and accessories from top industry brands, including Valor, Regency, and Napoleon. Our experts can help you select the correct insert for your home heating requirement and budget. We will also arrange for delivery and professional installation by our CSIA-certified technicians.

Visit Our Fireplace Store Near Shawnee

Thinking about updating or adding a fireplace? Visit the Fluesbrothers Fireplace Store at 1701 Southwest Blvd in Kansas City, KS. We are conveniently located off Monarch Hwy (I-35), just minutes from Shawnee, Mission, Merriam, Armourdale, and downtown Kansas City. Call (913) 236-7141 to schedule an appointment or contact us online today.

The post Shawnee, KS Wood & Gas Fireplace Inserts appeared first on Fluesbrothers Chimney Service.